I absolutely can’t relieve it but next week I’ll be celebrating my 6 month anniversary with the country of Guatemala. When I first arrived in country I met a volunteer who was on her way out and I asked her if she had any words of wisdom for a new volunteer. She said to me that the days will crawl, but the months will fly, and she couldn’t have been more right. Some days, when I’m in my office pondering the intricacies of spider solitaire (there hasn’t been a lot of work with the holidays and then our town fair…luckily things are picking up now) it seems like the day will never end. However, now that I’m sitting on the top of 6 months here, I can’t believe how the time has flown. So, as a retrospective on the last half-year of my life, here´s a few of the things Guatemala has taught me:
· Spanish!
· Saturday nights are not complete without Tamales and Sabado Gigante
· That there’s always room for one more, whether in an already jam-packed bus or for lunch at a neighbor’s house
· Soccer is way more exciting when played on a basketball court
· You don’t really need hot (or even warm) water to wash dishes...or your body
· Greeting absolutely everyone you meet on the street is totally normal
· If you are the gringa, little kids will ring your doorbell at all hours of the night, even if you give them your best angry eyes
· Papaya is still gross, even when it’s super fresh
· Fireworks are not only for adults. They make cool toys for 4 year olds too!
· Beans are really really really good
· So are tortillas
· Walk slower. What’s the hurry?
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Friday, January 23, 2009
Immigration
It is impossible to live in the US and not hear, at least occasionally, about immigration. Usually the voices we hear are angry and impassioned. On the one side, it is argued that illegal immigrants are stealing our jobs and sapping our public services. On the other, cries for amnesty and tolerance are backed by weak or infeasible plans of action. Both sides are calling for reform and I have never been more aware of this need since arriving in Guatemala.
It seems appropriate, during the first few days of a new president to reflect on a system badly in need of repair and to speak of what I’ve seen while living here in Guatemala. Even living in DC and seeing whole neighborhoods of Latin American immigrants, I was unaware of the hugeness of this issue. It is no exaggeration to say that more than half of the people I have met in Guatemala have either been to the US to work, or a family member has, the vast majority of them undocumented.
Guatemala is a country rich with resources and hard working people, but lacking the social structure to ensure that people have jobs and that the wealth that comes from exports actually makes it into the hands of the people. Both relative and abject poverty are rampant, and despite hard work, there are many who go to bed hungry, kids who can’t afford to go to school, and widespread lack of simple necessities like running water, electricity, and sanitation.
Walking through a Guatemalan community one can easily see which families´ incomes are augmented by money coming from the US- their houses are much bigger, the children better dressed, fed, and attending school. Though, I don’t think the dramatic inequity is a good thing, it would be difficult to convince anyone that kids having shoes, something to eat, and an education is a bad thing. Whole municipalities benefit from the remittances as well. During my training I visited a volunteer who said that 60% of the funds of her municipality come from the US. Guatemalans in the US send money back to fund not only their families, but projects for schools, libraries, roads, and churches.
The problem I see is this: it is absolutely unsustainable. Unsustainable for Guatemala in the sense that whole communities are relying on funds coming from people who could be caught and deported in the blink of an eye. The flow of outside resources also creates a false sense of wealth and depresses local markets, causing people to rely on money sent from the US instead of using what tools are in their hands to produce what they need to live.
It is equally unsustainable for the US. Most of the jobs held by undocumented workers are those that Americans do not want, or cannot occupy because the pay is so low (this in itself is a human rights issue, as employers in the US employ undocumented workers who have no legal right to demand a fair wage and therefore work backbreaking jobs for $2-3 an hour). The US has become reliant on cheap labor supplied by migrant workers to deliver our tomatoes to our grocery store at the minimum price. If we were to, in a day, deport all of the workers who live illegally in the US, we would in one sweep, wipe out those who plant, pick, and transport our food. Furthermore, if those workers were replaced by American workers who received a fair wage for a days work, we’d see the price of produce double overnight. Imagine the riots at your local grocery store if tomatoes all of sudden cost $6/lb! (Agriculture is only an example. Migrant workers can be found in nearly every service sector in the US)
All of that to say that the issue is not as simple as talk radio wants us to think it is. I genuinely believe that there’s hope for repairing the system, making it better both for the US and for those who seek work on American soil. Many have proposed a tightening of control on illegal immigration (in safe ways that do not include threatening or endangering the lives of those who try to cross our borders) while also providing a way for those who want to work in the US, a way to do so legally and for fair wages, such as a Guest Worker program. We need the labor, they need the income, and we all need the education that cross-cultural interaction brings.
It seems appropriate, during the first few days of a new president to reflect on a system badly in need of repair and to speak of what I’ve seen while living here in Guatemala. Even living in DC and seeing whole neighborhoods of Latin American immigrants, I was unaware of the hugeness of this issue. It is no exaggeration to say that more than half of the people I have met in Guatemala have either been to the US to work, or a family member has, the vast majority of them undocumented.
Guatemala is a country rich with resources and hard working people, but lacking the social structure to ensure that people have jobs and that the wealth that comes from exports actually makes it into the hands of the people. Both relative and abject poverty are rampant, and despite hard work, there are many who go to bed hungry, kids who can’t afford to go to school, and widespread lack of simple necessities like running water, electricity, and sanitation.
Walking through a Guatemalan community one can easily see which families´ incomes are augmented by money coming from the US- their houses are much bigger, the children better dressed, fed, and attending school. Though, I don’t think the dramatic inequity is a good thing, it would be difficult to convince anyone that kids having shoes, something to eat, and an education is a bad thing. Whole municipalities benefit from the remittances as well. During my training I visited a volunteer who said that 60% of the funds of her municipality come from the US. Guatemalans in the US send money back to fund not only their families, but projects for schools, libraries, roads, and churches.
The problem I see is this: it is absolutely unsustainable. Unsustainable for Guatemala in the sense that whole communities are relying on funds coming from people who could be caught and deported in the blink of an eye. The flow of outside resources also creates a false sense of wealth and depresses local markets, causing people to rely on money sent from the US instead of using what tools are in their hands to produce what they need to live.
It is equally unsustainable for the US. Most of the jobs held by undocumented workers are those that Americans do not want, or cannot occupy because the pay is so low (this in itself is a human rights issue, as employers in the US employ undocumented workers who have no legal right to demand a fair wage and therefore work backbreaking jobs for $2-3 an hour). The US has become reliant on cheap labor supplied by migrant workers to deliver our tomatoes to our grocery store at the minimum price. If we were to, in a day, deport all of the workers who live illegally in the US, we would in one sweep, wipe out those who plant, pick, and transport our food. Furthermore, if those workers were replaced by American workers who received a fair wage for a days work, we’d see the price of produce double overnight. Imagine the riots at your local grocery store if tomatoes all of sudden cost $6/lb! (Agriculture is only an example. Migrant workers can be found in nearly every service sector in the US)
All of that to say that the issue is not as simple as talk radio wants us to think it is. I genuinely believe that there’s hope for repairing the system, making it better both for the US and for those who seek work on American soil. Many have proposed a tightening of control on illegal immigration (in safe ways that do not include threatening or endangering the lives of those who try to cross our borders) while also providing a way for those who want to work in the US, a way to do so legally and for fair wages, such as a Guest Worker program. We need the labor, they need the income, and we all need the education that cross-cultural interaction brings.
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
On Learning a Mayan Language
Guatemala has a thriving Mayan culture made up of 22 distinct cultures and languages. Most of the women (and some of the men) of these groups continue to wear their traditional dress or traje. By these outfits, the well-trained eye can tell from which part of Guatemala the wearer hails.
The municipality in which I live is 97% Mayan Mam. Nearly all of the women and some of the men still wear the local traje. For the women this is a deep red boxy shirt with tassels coming off the bottom and ornate embroidery on the top, a black skirt with small blue and yellow stripes, and a beautifully woven belt covered in embroidered flowers. In addition to their stunning clothing, the Mam of my town speak their traditional language in almost all conversations and interactions.
Children are taught Spanish in their bi-lingual primary schools, but many of the older generations (especially the women) do not speak Spanish. I could probably survive in my town with only Spanish (the 3% of non-indigenous peoples of my municipality live in the town where my house is), but it is becoming increasingly clear to me that the Mam language is going to be a crucial skill for gaining the trust of my non-Spanish speaking neighbors. Though the Mam culture is very private and wary of outsiders, I have noticed that when I use the few Mam phrases I’ve learned they open up with smiles and further conversation.
Therefore, I’m once again launching into the often confusing and frustrating world of learning a new language! My teacher meets me 3 times a week for 2 hours each time to try and pass along his knowledge of his ancient and linguistically challenging language. Whereas English as 5 vowels, Mam has 10. English has 22 consonants; Mam has 27, 7 of which are glotalized, meaning the sound comes from the back of the throat (try saying the letter K and then pushing the sound further back down your throat…you just said a letter in Mam!) However, despite all of the challenges, I think I’m actually catching on…slowly!
I’ve learned to say basic things like what I am currently doing or planning to do in the near future, my numbers from 1-20, and how to buy fruits and veggies in the market. I’m also learning some basic phrases to use in my office such as “come on in,” “sit down please,” and “wait here while I get someone who speaks Mam.” Saying “sit down please” has proven to be something of a challenge though, for the glotalized syallable that it contains.
What I’m trying to say is… Please sit down = q´eka
What I’m actually saying is…Please lay down = kyeka
I’ve given you the literal translation of my error…use your imagination and you can probably figure out the colloquial phrase that I’ve been saying, causing eruptions of laughter or faces of horror from everyone in earshot! I suppose you’ve got to say a few inappropriate things before you begin to say things properly! So I’ll keep plugging away. I’ll keep you posted on my progress.
The municipality in which I live is 97% Mayan Mam. Nearly all of the women and some of the men still wear the local traje. For the women this is a deep red boxy shirt with tassels coming off the bottom and ornate embroidery on the top, a black skirt with small blue and yellow stripes, and a beautifully woven belt covered in embroidered flowers. In addition to their stunning clothing, the Mam of my town speak their traditional language in almost all conversations and interactions.
Children are taught Spanish in their bi-lingual primary schools, but many of the older generations (especially the women) do not speak Spanish. I could probably survive in my town with only Spanish (the 3% of non-indigenous peoples of my municipality live in the town where my house is), but it is becoming increasingly clear to me that the Mam language is going to be a crucial skill for gaining the trust of my non-Spanish speaking neighbors. Though the Mam culture is very private and wary of outsiders, I have noticed that when I use the few Mam phrases I’ve learned they open up with smiles and further conversation.
Therefore, I’m once again launching into the often confusing and frustrating world of learning a new language! My teacher meets me 3 times a week for 2 hours each time to try and pass along his knowledge of his ancient and linguistically challenging language. Whereas English as 5 vowels, Mam has 10. English has 22 consonants; Mam has 27, 7 of which are glotalized, meaning the sound comes from the back of the throat (try saying the letter K and then pushing the sound further back down your throat…you just said a letter in Mam!) However, despite all of the challenges, I think I’m actually catching on…slowly!
I’ve learned to say basic things like what I am currently doing or planning to do in the near future, my numbers from 1-20, and how to buy fruits and veggies in the market. I’m also learning some basic phrases to use in my office such as “come on in,” “sit down please,” and “wait here while I get someone who speaks Mam.” Saying “sit down please” has proven to be something of a challenge though, for the glotalized syallable that it contains.
What I’m trying to say is… Please sit down = q´eka
What I’m actually saying is…Please lay down = kyeka
I’ve given you the literal translation of my error…use your imagination and you can probably figure out the colloquial phrase that I’ve been saying, causing eruptions of laughter or faces of horror from everyone in earshot! I suppose you’ve got to say a few inappropriate things before you begin to say things properly! So I’ll keep plugging away. I’ll keep you posted on my progress.
Friday, January 9, 2009
Belated Christmas Cookies
The holiday season found me very busy and unable to deliver on a promise to make Christmas cookies with my friend Gladys´ two girls. However, I found some free time last weekend and Gladys dropped the girls off for an afternoon of belated Christmas cookie-making. As you can see from the photos, it was a messy event. The older of the two girls, the very precocious Maria Victoria proved herself to be quite an artist, while the younger, Alejandra, proved herself to be something of a world-class eater. During the course of the afternoon I think somewhere around 6 cookies disappeared (very sneakily) into her 2 year old belly. I’m now convinced she could take the crown at one of those hot-dog eating contests.
We had quite a blast! It was the girls´ first time to make cookies and they loved the whole process, from mixing the dough with their hands to frosting and decorating the cookies. They’re already asking me when the next American holiday is so we can make more cookies. Maybe we’ll make some Presidents Day cookies. Does anyone have a cookie-cutter of Lincoln’s profile I could borrow?
Monday, January 5, 2009
Christmas Without Snow
Kids playing with fire. I think they were burning old school papers. The firecrackers came later, but they were running so fast that I didn´t get any decent pictures!
Gift exchange with Doña Mary´s family
Alana won bright green plastic fingernails in our gift exchange. Here I am applying them.
Although I missed snow like you wouldn´t believe, it must be said that my first Guatemalan Christmas was not without it´s charms. If Christmas Carols and Snowmen are your thing, you´d probably miss your American Christmas. However, if you dig 4 year olds playing with fireworks at midnight and tamales so stuffed with chilis that you think your lips might burn off...then Guatemala is your place for the holidays!
I celebrated the holiday in style with 3 friends from my training group who came to my town to stay with me for a few nights. We cooked up some mighty tasty Mediterranean food (whoever said that you have to have ham for Christmas has obviously never had Falafel) and watched movies. I rang in the midnight hour with my friend Doña Mary and her family. The kids all went nuts with fireworks, sparklers, and enough firecrackers to make the neighbors think World War III was breaking out. After wishing everyone in the family and everyone on the street a Merry Christmas we at delicious tamales and exchanged gifts. It was lovely and I´m sure every Christmas in the future, whether I´m somewhere else in the world or cozy in a warm house while snow falls outside, I´ll remember this Christmas complete with tamales and firecrackers.
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