Winter is absolutely my favorite time of year in New Hampshire. Sure, Autumn is beautiful in myriad colors, and spring is lovely; everything dead bursting into life. But winter is hushed and peaceful and never fails to charm me. I was packing last night for a trip to the winter wonderland that is NH in December, dreaming of all the snowboarding and sledding and snowman making I would soon be doing when I received a text from the Peace Corps security officer saying something to the effect of "DON'T TRAVEL, protests and roadblocks likely!" I panicked, picturing myself missing my flight. So I scrambled and asked friends and neighbors how to get to the city in time to catch my flight- the 1am night-bus en-route from mexico was the only offered solution (other volunteers affectionately refer to it as the "cocaine train" because there's no way you'd drive or ride on it unless you were on cocaine).
I quickly gathered my belongings, shut my eyes for an hour of sleep and then schlepped my giant bag down to the bottom of the hill where the buses from Mexico pass. The bus arrived only minutes later and I was ushered onto what was the most luxurious bus I've seen yet in this country. This magical midnight bus spirited me away, flying gleefully through the darkened Guatemalan towns I usually curse for standing between me and the end of my journey. I arrived in Antigua without a hitch, dropped my bags at my hostel and after a cup of coffee and a check of the ole-email am off for a full day of Christmas shopping and friend visiting. Thank you, delightful mystery bus for saving my Christmas spirit. If, the next time I rise in the middle of the night to take a bus to the city, the midnight express doesn't arrive, I won't be surprised...maybe it was just Christmas miracle.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
High Points
To celebrate the end of Environmental camp I met up with a group of other Peace Corps friends and climbed Volcan Tajumulco- the tallest point in Central America! Tajumulco is a dormant volcano whose peak can be seen from all over Guatemala and has been a goal of mine since I set foot in this country.
We met up Saturday morning and hiked 4 hours to our camp site, our bodies screaming under the weight of packs that none of us had carried for a long time (it had been 16 months since my last backpacking trip! Unfortunately the PC schedule doesn't leave much opportunity for backpacking trips) We camped in a valley at the base of the summit and enjoyed a well-deserved warm meal made on a fire (Scott and I machete-ed a fallen tree to pieces to bring back wood. So hardcore).
We rose at 4am, knocked the sleep out of our eyes and ice out of our shoes and took off for the summit. I’ve only had the chance to hike above 10,000 feet 3 other times in my life and my lungs pinched at the lack of oxygen. But the moon was bright and the view was incredible so the push to the summit was lovely. I arrived at the top with Mark and Scott a little after 5am and enjoyed the full range of colors that the sunrise provided.
We met up Saturday morning and hiked 4 hours to our camp site, our bodies screaming under the weight of packs that none of us had carried for a long time (it had been 16 months since my last backpacking trip! Unfortunately the PC schedule doesn't leave much opportunity for backpacking trips) We camped in a valley at the base of the summit and enjoyed a well-deserved warm meal made on a fire (Scott and I machete-ed a fallen tree to pieces to bring back wood. So hardcore).
We rose at 4am, knocked the sleep out of our eyes and ice out of our shoes and took off for the summit. I’ve only had the chance to hike above 10,000 feet 3 other times in my life and my lungs pinched at the lack of oxygen. But the moon was bright and the view was incredible so the push to the summit was lovely. I arrived at the top with Mark and Scott a little after 5am and enjoyed the full range of colors that the sunrise provided.
Environmental Camp
To say we were overwhelmed when 80 kids showed up on day one of "La Gran Semana del Ambiente" is an understatement. Mark (my sitemate) and I had planned for a maximum of 60 kids and were totally unprepared for the amount of “energy” these kids brought with them. The first day was CRAZY. But we learned from our mistakes and tweaked as we went along. Day two was significantly better and as the week progressed, things got continually better.
The kids learned about how to care for the land, water, air, animals, and the forest through lessons, crafts, games, songs and even snacks! On the last day of camp 57 kids received diplomas for attending all week, and as we sang our final camp song I realized that it was worth all the trouble and stress. It was a pretty wild week, and while I’m not sure I’m ready to jump into another one just yet, the kids learned tons and loved their time at camp.
The kids learned about how to care for the land, water, air, animals, and the forest through lessons, crafts, games, songs and even snacks! On the last day of camp 57 kids received diplomas for attending all week, and as we sang our final camp song I realized that it was worth all the trouble and stress. It was a pretty wild week, and while I’m not sure I’m ready to jump into another one just yet, the kids learned tons and loved their time at camp.
An Opportunity for Growth
I don’t believe that poverty or wealth is measured in numbers, but rather in quality of life and the ability for growth. In my experience I would say these factors, which make a person poor or not, have more to do with environment and mindset than they do with money.
Many of the communities I visited during my time in Tanzania were by typical standards very poor, however, their ability to provide for themselves from their land, their desire for growth and ingenuity in making that happen, created a quality of life that I have not seen in many other places. The family I lived with in Mbeya had very little money. They ate the food they grew and raised, and sold sunflower oil to put their daughters through school and pay for the occasional luxury.
This attitude of self-sustainability is sadly not something that I’ve seen much of in my community here in Guatemala. It has a lot to do with years of oppression by majority groups. It probably also has a lot to do with the fact that the model of development that many NGOs have used here in the past: giving out stuff (latrines, school supplies, houses, animals, etc.) Because of those two factors, many of the women that I work with aren’t interested in listening to talks about hygiene or cooking unless there is a promise of a project or gift at the end. It can be pretty disheartening.
Six of the women that I work with have recently connected with a local company in a very interesting project, generating income via a model called micro-consignment. It differs from traditional micro-credit programs in that the women aren’t loaned any money and don’t owe anyone anything- they simply sell products for the company and earn a percentage of the profit. The products are sold at a very low cost and are items that are needed in their communities, such as eyeglasses, water filters, solar-powered lights, seeds, etc. I have been accompanying the women to their trainings as they’ve learned how to give eye-exams and promote the products.
It has been really exciting for me to see these women show a lot of commitment and ingenuity in this project. They are paying their own travel expenses to come to the trainings, taking time away from their fields and kitchens to learn a skill that will serve them in generating income and self-esteem. It shows me that despite the many hurdles they have to overcome, and despite oppression and the development history in Guatemala, they are invested and willing to work to see the changes they desire. This Friday will be their first community campaign to put their skills to the test. I’ll keep posting on the progression of the project, but for now, here are some photos of the women learning to give the eye exams…
Many of the communities I visited during my time in Tanzania were by typical standards very poor, however, their ability to provide for themselves from their land, their desire for growth and ingenuity in making that happen, created a quality of life that I have not seen in many other places. The family I lived with in Mbeya had very little money. They ate the food they grew and raised, and sold sunflower oil to put their daughters through school and pay for the occasional luxury.
This attitude of self-sustainability is sadly not something that I’ve seen much of in my community here in Guatemala. It has a lot to do with years of oppression by majority groups. It probably also has a lot to do with the fact that the model of development that many NGOs have used here in the past: giving out stuff (latrines, school supplies, houses, animals, etc.) Because of those two factors, many of the women that I work with aren’t interested in listening to talks about hygiene or cooking unless there is a promise of a project or gift at the end. It can be pretty disheartening.
Six of the women that I work with have recently connected with a local company in a very interesting project, generating income via a model called micro-consignment. It differs from traditional micro-credit programs in that the women aren’t loaned any money and don’t owe anyone anything- they simply sell products for the company and earn a percentage of the profit. The products are sold at a very low cost and are items that are needed in their communities, such as eyeglasses, water filters, solar-powered lights, seeds, etc. I have been accompanying the women to their trainings as they’ve learned how to give eye-exams and promote the products.
It has been really exciting for me to see these women show a lot of commitment and ingenuity in this project. They are paying their own travel expenses to come to the trainings, taking time away from their fields and kitchens to learn a skill that will serve them in generating income and self-esteem. It shows me that despite the many hurdles they have to overcome, and despite oppression and the development history in Guatemala, they are invested and willing to work to see the changes they desire. This Friday will be their first community campaign to put their skills to the test. I’ll keep posting on the progression of the project, but for now, here are some photos of the women learning to give the eye exams…
Thankful
I have so many things in my life to be thankful for. I have lived a remarkably healthy life for 24 years, I have incredible parents who have supported me in every endeavor I’ve ever undertaken, I have a brother who is one of the coolest people I know and a great friend, I am surrounded by friends who love me unconditionally and push me to grow and learn. I am living an exciting life, fulfilling dreams, being challenged and changed, learning about the world and about myself.
So, this Thanksgiving, while celebrating with a group of other volunteers, I raised my glass to friends, to family and to authentic experiences. Here’s to you- thank you for being a part of my life and giving me so much to be thankful for.
So, this Thanksgiving, while celebrating with a group of other volunteers, I raised my glass to friends, to family and to authentic experiences. Here’s to you- thank you for being a part of my life and giving me so much to be thankful for.
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